Bathing Optional

Ecuador: July - Aug. 2006

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Arriving in South America! Flying into Quito, EcuadorÂ´s 2870 foot high capital.
Another look at Quito from the sky.
QuitoÂ´s Old Town -- a UNESCO protected world heritage site.
Street vendor.
QuitoÂ´s Old Town streets are a fantastic maze of fabulously restored colonial architecture.
Evening falls on our first day in South America.
Most of Quito sits in a deep valley so there are hills with homes every which way you look.
Jesus keeping a close eye on those colas.
Dome of one of QuitoÂ´s Old Town churches.
Great colonial facade and color.
Another great colonial facade.
Buildings like these fill block after block , street after street in QuitoÂ´s Old Town.
Another one.
Love it!
Beautiful!
QuitoÂ´s, and EcuadorÂ´s, best church doesnÂ´t look it from the outside, but inside it is really a sight to see. ItÂ´s said that 7 tons of gold were used to fill the interior and it shows!
Church facade statue.
Cross.
More details.
Rooftops and church domes.
Lots of these traditionally dressed Ecuadorians roam the streets of Quito usually selling snacks, lottery tickets and other small goods.
Inside one of the great churches.
Another look inside one of the churches.
Streetside prayer box.
Row of colonial buildings.
Little girl climbing church steps.
The Virgin keeps a silent watch over Old Quito at all times.
Street life.
Cross.
Get your Halloween costumes here (in July!).
Dusk falls on Quito.
Most of Old QuitoÂ´s buildings are lit up beautifully in the evening.
The ArchbishopÂ´s Palace.
Night lights.
Statue in the Plaza de la Independencia.
The La Merced church lit up in the evening.
More evening lights.
Church tower.
The next morning. View from our hotel, the Grand Hotel on via Rocafuerte.
Old Town street, early morning.
Early morning flower sales.
View over QuitoÂ´s rooftops.
Road.
Old colonial home.
Rundown square.
Steep streets and hill beyond.
Old church tower.
Steep and colorful street.
Nice.
Checking out the morning street activity.
Statue of famous revolutionary Mariscal Sucre and the Church of Santo Domingo tower.
Ladies on the street.
Rooftops.
Looking down the street our hotel is on.
Lady on the street.
Fruit sales in an alley.
Another nice facade.
Cross, building and mountains in the Plaza Santo Domingo.
Lantern.
Church details.
Rooftops and church domes.
Church.
Old map of Quito.
Lady on the street with bag of vegetables for sale.
Old lady.
Church statues.
Buildings.
Ashe on a bench in the main plaza.
The main cathedralÂ´s dome.
Entrance to the main cathedral.
Blossoming tree and fountain in the Old TownÂ´s main square, the Plaza de la Independencia.
Plaza statue and blossoms.
Palm, tower, and statue.
Lady by church doors.
Inside one of the many Old Town churches.
The Pope and some followers.
Inside a church.
Church dome.
Church altar.
Church carvings.
Stautue with church dome.
Girl on balcony.
View over QuitoÂ´s Old Town from the clocktower of the new Basilica.
Rooftop views from the Basilica.
More rooftops.
Laundry day.
Rooftops as far as the eye can see.
Basilica spire and the highrises of QuitoÂ´s New Town.
Looking at the other tower from another tower.
Rooftops -- again!
Ashe climbing the ladder inside the Basilica clock tower.
Clock tower.
Clock tower with the Virgin on the Panecillo Hill in the distance.
Tower with rooftops.
Inside the Basilica.
Basilica stained glass.
Us in the Basilica.
Sanduches for sale.
Basilica over homes.
One of the Old TownÂ´s many beautiful streets.
Lady with baby.
Older lady on street corner.
Virgin statue.
Watching the world go by.
Lady on the street.
Veggies for sale!
Done for the day.
The plazas fill up at the end of the day.
More plaza activity.
Ice cream for sale!
Miscellaneous snacks for sale.
It took me 20 minutes to get her photo -- she kept avoiding me!
Statue.
ArchbishopÂ´s Palace.
Nowhere else have we seen such a military and police presence as we have in Quito. TheyÂ´re everywhere!
Jesus in neon lights.
Evening sets on day 2 in Quito.
Church dome lit up.
Church lit up.
The Monastery of San Francisco lit up at night.
Gotta love the buses in Ecuador! Most are decked out like this one.
The main church in Otavalo.
Friday evening and already things are getting started in anticipation of Otavalos huge Saturday market.
Beyond its heart in the towns main square, the Saturday market spills out into almost every street in Otavalos center.
Beautiful fabric for sale.
More colorful fabrics for sale.
Getting her stall ready.
Ponchos.
Handicrafts are what the market is all about!
You can even buy pig heads in the market.
Lots of fruit for sale.
Considering the goods for sale.
The local outfits are fantastic!
Preparing the beans for sale.
Great example of the local clothing -- the thick, layered necklace, the heavy scarf on the head, the skirt and the poncho -- all in white and blue.
Traditional dresses for sale. Local womens clothing is always beautifully embroidered.
The look.
One of the most impressive handicrafts: hand carved gourds with such fine detail.
Colorful masks.
Rugs and ponchos with village life scenes and Quechua images were everywhere in the market.
The locals from the mountains are often so dark and despite the warmth, always seem to wear those heavy ponchos.
Just before she threw some rotten veggies at me for taking her photo.
Making a sale.
Street corner knitter.
More traditional clothing -- white blouse, thick vest, black scarft tied on the head, and chain after chain of gold necklaces.
Fruit vendor.
Another fantastic example of the local clothing!
Bread for sale.
Such a hot day, so many layers.
Old lady with a chicken doing laps around the plaza.
Ashe walking in Otavalo.
Typical Ecuadorian home -- cement, colorful and beams and sticking up from the roof ready for the day when theyre ready for the second floor.
Countryside above Otavalo. We were worn out by the huge market pretty quick and had to take a hike out of town.
Peguche Falls, not too far from Otavalo and our camping spot that night.
Ashe at Peguche Falls.
The town we hiked up to above Otavalo sat right under a volcano known as the Heart Volcano for the shape on the side of the mountain.
Country home.
Ashe meets the locals.
Local family.
These ladies were wearing beautiful skirts and embroidered blouses while cutting down and hauling trees!
Local kids.
Maciej got in on the action by helping the local townspeople clear the trees they had cut.
Countryside.
The local creek.
The creek is used for everything, including laundry.
Child by the water.
Should I get that Coke, or not?
Marsh and volcano.
The lake just south of Otavalo.
Hanging out to dry.
Countryside.
Sisters.
Beautiful little girl!
Lake Cuicocha, a great volcanic crater lake near Otavalo and just above the town of Cotacachi.
Lake Cuicocha.
Local dudes.
Taking a break during our hike around Lake Cuicocha.
Above Lake Cuicocha.
Views to the valley from the volcano rim.
Ashe relaxing by the Lake.
Sunset from our camping spot along the rim of the Cuicocha volcano.
The next morning, drying our stuff before packing up.
Maciej in the back of the truck we hired to drive us back down to town.
The uninspiring town of Zumbahua, our first stop along the fabled Quilotoa Loop, Ecuadors most spectacular mountain route.
Zumbahua, like a ghost town.
Soccer match.
The town church.
Zumbahua sits in a deep valley with peaks like this one all around. Unfortunately, as with much of central Ecuador, the mountains are completely stripped and cultivated.
The next day we began the long hike through the countryside to Lake Quilotoa. The scenery along the way was arid and dry. We were at about 3500 meters.
Llama spotting along the way.
One of many mangy dogs that came to greet and bark at us along the way.
Boy on the road.
Black pig.
Ashe checking out the road sign -- only 7km to go!
Maciej hiking along the road, only 6km to go.
Lake Quilotoa. This crater lake is worth a much longer hike even!
Ashe hiking down to the lakes shore, a long, slippery hike.
Views down to the lake set deep in the volcanic crater.
Taking a break along the trail down to the lake.
Lake Quilotoa.
Taking a horse down to the lake.
Flowers by the lake.
Ashe making her way down.
Horse by the lake, waiting for passengers.
Ashe by the Lake. The water is a brilliant blue and green.
Lake Quilotoas shores.
Sheep grazing by the Lake.
The family at Mama Pachas Hostel where we spent most of the afternoon. The small child in front was more than enough to keep us entertained for hours.
Maciej taking a break along the road to Chugchilan from Lake Quilotoa.
Andean scenery from the road to Chugchilan.
Scenery.
Field of lupin along the road.
Maciej taking a nap.
Those llamas are fast! I had to run hard and fast in order to catch up to this boy riding his llama down the road.
This is the cemetery in Chugchilan into which the strong night winds blew our tent and into which Maciej had to crawil in order to recover our tent.
Surrounding Chugchilan are deep valleys like this one.
Ashe hiking in the hills above Chugchilan.
Wildflowers in the hills.
More wildflowers and an old farmhouse.
Andean views from the ridge above Chugchilan to which we hiked.
Ashe hiking through the wildflowers.
Farmhouse in the hills.
Ashe on the milk truck. What a ride it was in the back of that truck for 2 hours from Chugchilan to Sigchos.
Farmers along the road selling their fresh milk to the milk truck milkmen.
Old church in Sigchos.
Buildings off the main plaza in Sigchos.
The clown head did little to add cheer to the deserted and dusty streets of Sigchos.
Most buses have a horseshoe screwed to their steps for good luck and having been aboard many a bus as they speed around dusty mountain curves, we understand why.
Stampede! We almost got run down by these sheep and cattle as they flew down the road by us in Saquisili.
Activity in Saquisilis Thursday market, Ecuadors most happening indigenous market!
Drink vendor in the market.
More Thursday morning market action!
Selling rope in the market.
A full market.
Even more action in the market.
Lots of cattle and pigs for sale in the animal market.
Forgotten chickens.
How many people can fit into the back of a pick-up truck?
Old lady selling what old ladies sell best: pig heads.
Ashe with the mother and daughter team who took wonderful care of us at Saquisilis Ecologic Lodge.
Cotopaxi Volcano as seen from our camping spot within the grounds of the Ecologic Lodge.
Banos, one of Ecuadors most popular towns and for good reason. Its quaint, its in a deep, lush, tropical valley, theres an active volcano fuming above town, and there are plenty of jungle and waterfall adventures in the area. Oh, did we mention the hotsprings?
Views off of Banos main square.
Banos City Hall clocktower.
After two days in bed, Maciej was getting over his sickness so we decided on a day out in the jungle. We took a fantastic hike into the forest following this rushing river.
The area was swarming with incredible butterflies! We had come across an unmarked butterfly sanctuary of sorts.
Ashe along the river.
Rushing waters and deep forests all around.
Ashe sitting on a log we had to cross in order to get to a small waterfall on a feeder creek nearby.
The waterfall we hiked out to.
We had to do lots and lots of wading through the river waters during our hike upstream.
Maciej taking a rest during our hike.
Maciej in the river.
Ashe walking across the suspension bridge by the 100 meter high Pailon del Diablo waterfall.
Pailon del Diablo waterfall -- very impressive!
View of Banos and the river forming the northern boundary of the town with waterfalls falling over the cliffs marking the edge of the city.
Our last day in Banos, and when Maciej had finally overcome his sickness, we rented a 4-wheeler and took a short drive up one of the mountain roads above Banos.
Views of Banos from the mountain road.
Maciej on the 4-wheeler.
Views of Banos from up higher on the mountain road.
Horse high up in the mountains.
View of Mt.Tungaruhua, the active volcano that erupted while we were in Banos and whose rumblings kept us awake most nights during our 5-day stay.
Church is out in Chugchilan.
Ecuador, Chugchilan
On our way back to Quito, our plane had to make an emergency landing in Albuquerque. That evening, the Old Town was flooded during a huge thunderstorm.
Ashe walking in AlbuquerqueÂ´s streets turned streams.
River traffic.
The thunderstorm really turned the streets into rivers.
Cuenca, southern EcuadorÂ´s colonial gem.
Fantastic building in the heart of CuencaÂ´s Old Town.
More colonial grandeur.
One of dozens of picturesque blocks in Cuenca with a church on many a corner.
Saint DominicÂ´s Church.
St.DominicÂ´s Church
Ashe enjoying one of CuencaÂ´s many plazas.
Another street corner, another church.
Love those colonial, wooden balconies.
Nice.
Approaching CuencaÂ´s stunning cathedral.
The brilliant blue of the CathedralÂ´s domes.
Flower market.
Flower market action.
Flower market lady.
More flower market action.
Cuenca contrasts.
The CathedralÂ´s brick walls and domes.
Dealer on the corner.
Yet another church.
Another look at those great blue domes.
Buy your worship goods here! Lots for sale on most major church steps.
Finally, a look at the front of CuencaÂ´s fabulous Cathedral.
Another building along the main plaza.
View through arch.
Nice details in this covered patio.
More lovely colonial detailing.
ThatÂ´s right, another church.
A more unique corner building.
Color!
One of CuencaÂ´s loveliest churches, San Blas.
Historic bridge over CuencaÂ´s river.
Bridge.
On our way further south in Ecuador towards the Peruvian border, we made a quick stop in the nice town of Loja. Here, the main church.
Loja, a more low-key colonial town.
Independence Plaza in Loja.
Buildings along the Plaza.
Sitting and waiting, something we see folks doing a lot of down here in South America.
Loja building details.
Loja block.
Church tower in Loja.
A huge double rainbow bridged two mountaintops during our bus ride from Loja to the very southern reaches of Ecuador and the mountain village of Vilcabamba.
Ashe taking a nap in the tiny mountain town of Zumba after an overnight bus ride on bumpy roads and while waiting for our next bumby bus ride to the Ecuadorian-Peruvian border.
ZumbaÂ´s colorful church.
The open-sided bus/truck we rode on for the 2-hour border crossing from Ecuador to Peru. At least we had the saints on our side as we bumped our way across the border.
Jungle images painted at the end of each wooden bench on our bus.
On the move! Seems that they keep the roads to the border bumpy and almost undriveable on purpose to avoid unwanted crossings.
Mountain views were great during our bumpy ride to the border.
More mountain scenery.
At the border, but still in Ecuador.
Comforting images greeted us at the immigration booth.
More friendly images and armed soldiers made the border crossing a pleasant one.
A bus full to over-capacity waits at the border with us.
The Virgin bids us farewell as we cross the river border from Ecuador to Peru.
Ashe making the bridge crossing into Peru.
Love that colonial architecture.

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