Bathing Optional

Northern Thailand: May 2007

Continents

Continents

Previous Button

Bangkok, a typical Asian city that just seems to grow, develop, and grow some more, every few days. Its one of those places that retains a great deal of historical and cultural heritage even while developing into a city as modern as any.
Distant skyscrapers over old town rooftops.
Bangkok probably has more Buddhas per square kilometer than any other city in the world!
They LOVE their king here!
Most travelers begin and end any visit to Thailand on Khao San Road, the quintessential backpackers street. Since we visited last time we noticed that some western giants have crept in.
Its tough to go to Bangkok and miss the Grand Palace with its amazingly ornate temple, Wat Phra Keow. We missed it last time we were here, so we made sure to get there this time!
Covering their bases -- stupas of all styles stand by the royal temple.
Temple guardians -- at least three times man-sized.
Sharing the load.
Wow!
The Grand Palaces temples are covered in gold, colored glass and beautiful images like this one.
Over a temple doorway.
Not an inch left undecorated.
Temple entrance.
So ornate!
Temple animal in gold.
Typically Thai, the temples at the Royal Palace are covered in colored glass and mirrors.
Flowers.
Temple spire.
Over the top ornamentation.
A stone Buddha at this temple seemed a bit out of place.
Temple creature.
Theres even a mini Angkor Wat at the Royal Palace temple complex.
Five-headed staircase snake-like creature.
Golden hand.
Colorful stupa figure.
Golden face.
Following the ostentatiousness of the Royal temples, the Royal Palace itself (somehow) didnt look like much.
Thai flag at the entrance to the Royal Palace.
The streets in old Bangkok are slightly chaotic, a bit winding, but mostly great fun to wander and discover temple after temple amongst the back lanes. Between the buildings we could see our favorite giant Buddha.
Bangkoks giant standing Buddha.
The Parliament building.
The old Royal Palace, the worlds largest teak building.
The teak mansion, extremely beautiful inside.
The king loved traditionaly Thai stilt homes so much that he had a few built on the palace grounds and spent much of his time there.
Victorian architecture abounds at the early 20th century Royal Palace.
Carriages galore.
Moorish influence at the throne hall.
The Marble Temple is just that -- bright, white (and slippery) marble.
The Marble Temples main Buddha image.
Inside the Marble Temple and looking up.
Bangkok is bisected by several long canals that once served as the main transportation routes through the city.
Nothing beats taking out the ol inner tube and spending a day fishing on the river.
A visit to Bangkok is apparently incomplete without a ride up and down the river by river ferry. Somehow, we didnt do this the other 4 or 5 times weve been here. While on the boat we made sure to leave lots of space for monks along the rail.
Passing Wat Arun, the temple of the dawn, on the river.
A surprise as we continued down river.
A beautiful urn with floating blossoms greets us at one of our favorite spots in Bangkok, a collection of traditional homes turned into a museum.
A raised walkway leads to a traditional Thai home.
Ashe found her dream home design inside the traditional Thai home museum.
A modern skyscraper rises over traditional Thai rooftops.
Hedge art along one of modern Bangkoks avenues.
Modern Bangkok is almost as modern as it gets.
Tiny Buddhas usually surround the main Buddha image inside temples as does this little one in front of the giant bronze Buddha at Wat Traimit.
We got really lost in Bangkoks Chinatown while trying to head back to our guesthouse in the rain.
The next morning at Wat Ratchanatda.
Lots of Buddhas fill the halls in this Wat.
Views down over the monastic complex from the Wat tower.
More traditional rooftops.
Bangkoks Giant Swing is used once a year during some wacky Hindu festival.
Temple guardian.
Another great Buddha. Bangkok is overflowing with them!
Come to the dark side.
Tiny lanes lined with old wooden homes follow Bangkoks historic canals.
Stilt homes are the norm along Bangkoks canals.
Fine artwork on the doors to a very rustic temple we found along a western canal.
Temple Buddha.
The temples walls were also covered in brilliant traditional art.
Tuk-tuks are perhaps Bangkoks most famous road vehicle.
One of Bangkoks most famous temples is beautiful Wat Pho near the Royal Palace.
Wat Pho is surrounded by wonderfully decorated stupas.
Flowery stupas.
Whys he covered?
Despite all those other Buddhas at Wat Pho, the one everyone comes to see is this giant reclining Buddha inside the main hall. Its huge!
The bottoms of the giant reclining Buddhas feet are decorated in beautiful mother of pearl inlay work.
Peering through the columns.
Taking it easy for eternity.
Before we left Bangkok, a visit to Wat Arun, the temple of the dawn, another place we hadnt yet made it to during our previous many visits to this city.
Wat Aruns temple characters.
We were determined to see another side of Thailand this time and we certainly did as we took the bus into Thailands far north near the Burmese border. Along the way we passed beautiful villages like this one which we later learned are not Thai at all. Rather, they are Burmese refugee villages for those escaping the political situation there.
Another Burmese village just within the Thai border.
So beautiful!
Following a long and sleepless night bus trip to Mai Sot, Ashe was out for the count as we took bus after bus further north (all day long) towards Mae Hong Son.
While waiting for a connecting bus in Mae Sariang we spotted a local temple. The temples in this part of Thailand are built in Shan style, a style shared with most of Burma. We felt like we were back in Burma -- it was great!
This was probably the most disillusioned young monk weve seen. He looked pretty upset and was blasting some metal-ish music on his cell phone.
Another reminder of Burma, the stupa at a local temple in Mae Sariang.
We finally made it to Mae Hong Son late in the day and were happy to have this view from our guesthouse window!
The next morning. Brilliant views across Mae Hong Sons tiny lake to its main temple.
Another great Shan style temple.
Black Buddha.
We noticed that all these northern, Shan temples had bulls heads at their doors -- an interesting local custom.
Dusting off the Buddha.
Young monks taking it easy in the early morning.
Temple cat -- another similarity to Burmese temples.
A brilliant white stupa stands on the hill over Mae Hong Son.
Beautiful Shan lions and Buddha on the hill. Again, very Burmese.
The great standing Buddha on top of the hill.
Northern Thailand is all forested, green, hills.
Elephants ready for riders in the forest just outside Mae Hong Son.
Some of our best days have been spent tearing around the countryside on rented scooters in different parts of the world. When we saw that local scooters went for $2.50/24 hours, naturally, we couldnt resist!
Our first scooter stop was about 15 km. from Mae Hong Son. This Burmese refugee village, very close to the border with Burma, is home to the famous Karen tribe more commonly known as the long neck tribe.
Village homes - all wood, straw, and thatch.
One of the Karen (long neck) women. The necks are elongated with age as more hoops are placed around the neck.
Another local Karen girl.
This lady is one of the more true long neck women we saw. She was definitely an entertainer too, she played the guitar and sang beautiful folk songs.
Local girl.
None on the neck yet, but her knees and ankles were not spared.
Another local lady, weaving.
Baby.
The fact that these villagers are doing just fine was confirmed when this girl got on her fancy cell phone.
Does it hurt to laugh with those hoops around your throat?
A younger village girl.
Ashe with a couple long neck ladies.
Maciej couldnt resist when he saw the local kids playing this jump over the rising string game.
Goodbye Burmese village.
Ashe on our fancy scooter.
Roar!
Dont we look good!
Signs like this one scattered throughout the countryside reminded us that the long neck villages are somewhat of a tourist attraction and the refugees have certainly cashed in on it (we actually had to pay an entrance fee at the village we visited!). Their exploit of the situation is understandable, however, as they, being illegally in Thailand, are not permitted to work.
Our next stop was the Fish Cave across that little bridge.
Heres why its named Fish Cave.
Great bluish fish.
Forest Buddhas.
Countryside.
This was the only gas station around for miles and miles. This little girl worked the old school pumps that pumped out petrol in one liter bursts.
Shelter by the fields.
Very near the Burmese border, we found this tiny village on a small lake.
The village turned out to be a Chinese Yunnanese village.
Chinese lanterns.
Chinese style building by the lake.
Sheltered dock on the lake.
Kids enjoying the coolness of the lake.
Bathing boy.
Boy at the lake.
Not far from the Yunnanese village, the Thai-Burmese border.
A pretty bumpy dirt road had brought us there, but we were still surprised to find the border completely open and un-manned.
Ashe on the Burmese side. Shh... dont tell anyone.
We decided to finish the scooter day back on top of the hill over Mae Hong Son.
View over Mae Hong Son from the hill.
Moon over the white stupas.
Hilltop Buddha.
Ashe enjoying the sunset over Mae Hong Son.
Ashe again.
Maciej with Buddha at sunset.
Moon over Mae Hong Son.
They look great by day and night.
An early morning ride on the scooter the next morning (we were going to get the most of our 24 hours before we had to return it at 7:00 am!).
Love that countryside.
Pai, a fairly new backpackers favorite in northern Thailand. With huts on the river like these, we could understand the appeal but had seen plenty of more beautiful spots along the way to Pai.
Our garden bungalow at Sun Huts (thanks Jess and Craig!) in Pai.
Ashe relaxing in the hammock at our hut.
One of Pais several large stupas.
Pai temple.
Temple figure.
Reclining Buddha with Siddarthas flight from the palace scene behind him.
Mini-temple shrines like these can be seen just about everywhere in Thailand.
Local lady at a waterfall above Pai.
Children from a nearby Muslim village play in the pool under the waterfall.
Coming out of the water.
Elephant rider.
Pai scenery.
Golden stupa over the Luang Poo memorial cave temple.
Weve seen these amazing blossoming trees all across northern Thailand and have found ourselves stopping and staring every time.
Buddha images inside the cave temple.
Copy of the famous Emerald (really jade) Buddha. In Bangkok it sits far away on a very high altar so it was nice to see a replica up close.
Nice blend of styles.
Kids playing in a muddy creek near the Chiang Dao caves.
Swinging.
The next day we rented another scooter and drove out into the countryside west of Chiang Dao town. We were on our way to some caves and temples at the base of that fantastic peak.
The entrance to the cave temples of Chiang Dao.
Inside the cave.
Ancient Buddha images fill tiny grottoes within the cave network.
Ancient stupas also stand outside, near the cave entrance.
A large, old stupa.
Beyond the caves, and around the far western side of the great peak is a stupa and temple built in honour of famous Thai monk Luang Poo.
Tha Ton, a town very near the Burmese border and very popular starting point for riverboats to Chiang Rai. We arrived, stayed one night, checked the boat fares the next morning, were flabbergasted, and left by bus.
Boats ready to do the river trip.
Those fantastic blossoms once again.
Beautiful!
River scene in Tha Ton.
Great views from small pavilions at Tha Tons hill temple.
Morning views out over the hills.
Standing Buddha.
Temple monk.
Great side chapel.
River view.
Thats one big, white Buddha.
Three generations.
Yellow trees and yellow taxis.
Northern Thai tribal lady. She and her gang were relentless in trying to sell us some bracelets and weavings.
Chiang Rai, northern Thailands second big city is much more pleasant than the first, Chiang Mai. Most of the city center looks nothing like this but we preferred this old, residential quarter by the river to the modern town.
Chiang Rai used to be the royal capital which housed the famous Emerald Buddha. The Buddha is now in Bangkok but a great replica in a great green room still sits in Chiang Rais main temple.
The Emerald Buddha (replica).
Chiang Rai is full of exquisite temples like this one.
Chiang Rais great Buddha.
Huge!
What a face!
For an extremely strong Buddhist nation, we cant believe how much meat Thais eat!
More meat!
Were not sure if this is a regular thing or something related to Coronation Day on April 5th, but the live dancing and singing show on this fabulous stage in the heart of Chiang Rais great night market was a real treat!
Dancer.
Glowing stupa.
Temples often seem to be homes for stray dogs and they always seem to think that we are there to cause trouble.
Local transport in Chiang Saen. This historic town is right on the Mekong and right in the center of the infamous Golden Triangle.
Looking out our bus window into the pouring rain. We knew that the coming of May meant the coming of the rainy season in this part of South East Asia so we were afraid that our coming weeks would look just like this. Lucky for us, they havent... yet.
Chiang Saen is one of those forgotten historic capitals. Ancient stupas stand hidden amongst back lanes and homes.
Boats on the Mekong River in Chiang Saen. From here, one could go upriver to China or downriver to Laos.
Ladies waiting on the Thai side of the Mekong River in Chiang Khong. Across the river: Huay Xai, Laos.

View all picture thumbnails...

Move your mouse over a pin on the map and you will see some information here!