Bathing Optional
One Year in Korea
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Halloween does not go unnoticed here in Korea. As with many things western, Halloween has been welcomed by the Koreans. Also accepted are Pizza Hut, Nike, McDonalds, Roots (for all you Canadians), and any other major brand one could think of. There have been those times when anti-American sentiments have been high and all the above have been boycotted, but those were short-lived. At the end of her time here in Seoul, Ashe prepares to celebrate her second Halloween in Korea, but with a different group of kids. -
Gyeongju is perhaps Koreas foremost historical site. The ancient capital of the Silla Empire, this city and its surrounding hills are full of all kinds of relics. Another legacy of the past, dozens of immense grass mounds, the burial tombs of ancient rulers. Smaller versions of these can be found all over Korean hill and mountainsides as this form of burial is still widely practiced by Koreans. -
This is as close as we ever got to North Korea. Panmunjeom is the heavily-touristed United Nations outpost located at the DMZ, the 2km-wide no-access zone separating North and South Korea. In the distance can be made out the Norths propaganda town, a farce of a city and collection of false building facades. Like some abandoned movie set, the propaganda town sits idle while pro-communist North Korea slogans are blurted out the huge speakers hanging off the contender for the worlds highest flag pole. \r\nOnly one other time did we get so close to the North. That was while overnighting it in Seoraksan National Park. Not far from our mountain hut, we could see the lights of military outposts and wandering soldiers in the hills to our north. \r\nThese days, re-unification is high on many Koreans list of priorities. -
Christmas came soon after Maciejs arrival in Seoul.\r\nHere, we celebrated Christmas Eve in as posh an atmosphere as our wallets could afford.\r\n\r\nFrom left : Grant, Zach, Kurt, Jason, Louise, Louises friends, and Maciej -
Its not often that it snows in Seoul so the one day that there was a large snowfall, we explored one of Seouls palaces. Gyeongbukgung Palace takes on a completely different atmosphere during a winters storm. -
These imposing characters can be found at most Korean temples. Usually poised in the second of several gates as you enter the temple grounds, these guardians act to cleanse all visitors of evil thoughts and intentions as one enters the inner sanctuary. With these guys looking down on you its hard to enter with anything but a clear conscience. -
Seoraksan, by many, is considered South Koreas foremost National Park and with mountains like this, its no big surprise. We didnt do the winter hike, but a long hike following a huge typhoon in the summer turned out to be one of our best.\r\nNavigating through the debris, including steel bridges, fallen trees, and massive boulders, we somehow crossed the Park. All the while, our jaws hung low in awe as we viewed amazing crags, sheer cliffs, and fabulous cascades and waterfalls. This Park really does top them all ! -
Much to our surprise, at 25% of the population, Christianity is quite well represented in Korea. Myeongdong Cathedral is one of the oldest cathedrals in Korea, and also one of the most impressive. Cathedrals such as this are hard to find, but regular buildings-turned churches via the addition of a tall steeple topped with a eerie red neon cross, can be seen on every street corner. From a high vantage point, a night view of any of Seouls residential areas will show hundreds of floating red crosses in an otherwise dark landscape. -
Although not all temples are as immense physically as Tonghwasa (pictured), this brand-new temple is a big indication of the big business that Buddhism really is in Korea. If the size of this temple was not enough to demonstrate Buddhisms financial prosperity, the 4 monks that pulled up in a jet black, 2001 BMW as we left the temple definitely were. There is no doubt that these are auspicious years for Buddhism in Korea. -
Although the Korean winter kept us indoors for most of our time in Seoul, we did make sure to take what we could from this season. We spent 4 or 5 February and March weekends at two ski resorts. Bears Town, close to Seoul, resembled a busy shopping mall with 200 person line-ups at the lifts. After experiencing this twice, we opted instead for the more distant Phoenix Park which offered better slopes and lesser crowds. This winter was a first with snowboards for both of us. -
Every year, Buddhas birthday is celebrated when the western calendar matches the lunar date of April 8th.\r\n\r\nIn Korea, the coming of this date is marked by a daily growth in the number of simple paper lanterns that hang outside Koreas thousands of temples and culminates in festivals at which hundreds, but more often, thousands of these lanterns are lit in a brilliant display of lights !\r\n\r\nOn the peak day, we found ourselves at Doseunsa Temple at the base of the beautiful mountains of Bukhansan National Park just north of Seoul. -
At sunset, the lanterns were lit... -
During a month when we did 5 weekend-long temple retreats, Seonunsa was one of our best experiences. Behind the temple, a forest trail followed this misty stream to a great lake surrounded by mountains and fantastic cliffs beyond that. -
Another picture from this great park. This bridge and the ladder in the distance turn these peaks from something only a climber could do into something hikers like us could handle, if not a bit hair-raisingly! -
Jirisan National Park is Koreas first National Park. Its mountaintop trail follows one of the best ridges weve hiked! Many a weekend in Korea were spent following a trails something like this one... -
An early morning in the mountains. Nothing quite like it. -
Although cheering for different sides, Ashe and Maciej managed to hold no grudges following the Poland-USA World Cup match which, by the way, Poland dominated and won 4-1. -
The World Cup was a huge success in Korea. There werent as many foreign tourists as expected maybe, but the Koreans themselves were amazing fans. As the Korean team surprised the world, we were in the heart of it here. Red was the color of the month and everytime Korea played there were parties, celebrations, and immense crowds gathered at the many large screens set up all over the country. Still now, 4 months later, we can sometimes hear the unique Daehanminguk car horn honk when walking the streets of Seoul... -
This small, craggy spire can give one a good idea of what many of Koreas mountains look like. A good portion of Koreas peaks take on this ganite crag appearance while others are more of the rolling hill variety. Either way, hiking opportunities abound and views are always fantastic ! -
During the month of June, we ran for the hills in search of some peace, quiet and meditation in a handful of mountain temples. Spending weekends in places like the one pictured gave us just what we needed. -
Here we are in our monk garb. Usually in grey, this time we had to settle for the monk in training yellow robes. -
Wearing our more prestigious grey robes, we woke at 3:30am to the sound of a wooden block. Group prayer until 4:30, meditation until 5:30 and breakfast at 6am. That was our schedule during our temple retreats. Here, with the mist still hanging low over the trees and temple buildings, were enjoying the morning calm and wondering what else one could possibly be doing at 5am. -
Our relatively light work schedules allowed us sufficient time to pursue other interests. Here, were finishing up a carving of a pensive Buddha. In addition to this, we had the chance to try our hands at the gayageum, a traditional string instrument, and Korean dance. We also became certified in the art of green tea and played traditional games such as machak, yuknori, and others. All in all, were leaving the peninsula with a decent amount of traditional exposure under our belts. -
It was a day of celebration and we sang, Dae Han Ming Guk! -
I had one class of all girls and we sure had a lot of fun! -
This was one of the few classes that I had for 9 months, it was my favorite classes full of kids with lots of energy and love.\r\n -
This is one of my favorite students, Sun. -
Just having fun. -
Our last day together. -
Maciej, Ryan, Ashe and Tracey enjoying Buddhas birthday celebration in the streets of Seoul. -
Making lotuses for the parade. -
South Korea, Seoul -
Playing Igo in the streets. -
The police protecting a church. -
Maciej, Megan, Hei-An, Ashe, John and Briah. -
Megan, Briah, Ashe and Maciej -
Hei-An and his friend -
Typical monks quarter. -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
Maciej with Picasso, Noi and Briahs puppy. -
Maciej sharing his food! -
South Korea, Seoul -
South Korea, Seoul -
![With scenes like these, how can one not enjoy Seoul? As with most places outside North America, Seoul is a meeting of the old and new. Palaces and temples here, skyscrapers and movie theaters there. The quaintness this scene seems to imbue is hard to find, but without a doubt, some quiet places with hints of yesteryear do exist and once there, it doesnt take much of a stretch to get a traditionalist or sentimentalist to imagine a Seoul without cars and neon, a Seoul of tiled rooftops and traditionally-clad residents. [NOTE : Of all the pictures, we cannot take credit for this one, its a postcard]](4392-One Year in Korea/picture/60728-thumb.jpg)
With scenes like these, how can one not enjoy Seoul? As with most places outside North America, Seoul is a meeting of the old and new. Palaces and temples here, skyscrapers and movie theaters there. The quaintness this scene seems to imbue is hard to find, but without a doubt, some quiet places with hints of yesteryear do exist and once there, it doesnt take much of a stretch to get a traditionalist or sentimentalist to imagine a Seoul without cars and neon, a Seoul of tiled rooftops and traditionally-clad residents. [NOTE : Of all the pictures, we cannot take credit for this one, its a postcard] -
As of Oct.27, 2002, Seoul City publicly announced its new City Slogan : Hi Seoul ! In Korean, the slogan means simply high, but in English the word hi was used in order to put forth both connotations of the word -- the greeting and high. COEX (pictured) in Seouls newest, sleekest, and most modern downtown fits this image well. Indeed, Seoul is developing and growing quickly and each year Korea manages to creep up the global GNP list. Today, Seoul is conspicuously in transition, one area old and run-down and another space-ageish as in this picture. -
There it is, central Seoul. Surrounded by mountains, its a lovely place. Unfortunately, those very same mountains box in a cloud of grey smog that rarely lifts off of the city. Nevertheless, as we depart this city, its not the smog that hangs over us, but all the good memories weve developed in all those streets and little alleys amongst all those buildings. Its been a good time. Goodbye Seoul !
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